Gili Tepekong and Mimpang
Fierce currents keep the coral and gorgonian growth generally low and coarse, and the chilly clear water and rock formations are startling. These are healthy reefs, with an exceptional diversity of invertebrate and fish life. The current carries a constant supply of plankton and larval animals, which is the primary source of both their diversity and health. Maximum depths 20-30m (65-100ft). Tricky for photography but worth it.
Tepekong. This little Island is one of East Bali's most famous sites. A striking structure of angular black boulders with swim throughs, craggy canyons and rugged walls, attracting big schools of sweetlips and jacks, big groupers, sharks and pelagics like molas, batfish, jacks, snappers and rainbow runners. A big Napoleon wrasse lives here, and bumphead parrot fish patrol the tops of the mounds. Sharks are relatively common at Tepekong, usually white tips, though not as numerous as nearby Mimpang. Perhaps the most interesting shark sighting by a few reliable observers was of a lonesome hammerhead slowly cruising past. But rich coral-covered surfaces and macro treasures are not what Tepekong is about. It is the great scale of its structure, and of the huge schools of fish, that make this site exciting.
Mimpang. Also known as Shark Point is a small archipelago of four big rocks, and another half-dozen smaller ones, just over a kilometer northwest of Tepekong. Descend onto a flat rubble patch to see rare Javan flasher wrasse, leafy scorpion fish and unusual nudi's. Head towards the coral covered slope interspersed with large boulders covered with vibrant soft corals and patrolling reef sharks. The scenery is crisp and alive. Drift among boulders in about 15m (40ft) and get gently carried into great clouds of anthias and schools of sweetlips stacked up. Clumps of small bright yellow sea cucumbers are everywhere, we have never seen this animal -Colochirus robustus, anywhere else in Bali. Downslope the drift stops on to a quiet protected terrace with big gorgonians and barrel sponges. A large family of huge bumphead parrot fish call Mimpang home.
Padang Bai
Also known as Blue Lagoon, there are at least 5 or 6 different places to dive in this area, mostly consisting of white sandy slopes, rich bommies and rocky outcrops. The geographical layout of this area can offer protection from currents making it a nice easy relaxing place to dive.
We generally start our dive along the sandy slope going from bommie to bommie on a critter hunt then make our way up the slope to the reef top, a beautiful coral garden with massive table corals at only 5-10m (15-30ft) to find mating cuttle fish, turtles and sharks, and schools of huge sweetlips.
The maximum depth for great marine life is around 20-25m (60-80ft).
It is perhaps one of the most interesting places to dive in all of Bali, as there always seems to be a surprise encounter with something rare and exotic. Either a seasonal Mola Mola, wobbegong shark, unusual walking scorpion fish, dolphins, manta ray, star gazer, huge crocodile fish, rhinopias, ornate and robust ghost pipes and great nudibranchs.
On a regular basis there are leafy scorpion fish of every colour, white-tips and nurse sharks, cuttle fish often seen mating, turtles, giant frog fish and inimicus scorpion fish. Great critters too, such as bargabanti pygmy seahorse, xeno whip coral crab, pink hairy squat lobster, crinoid squat lobster, yellow spotted red gymnodoris nudibranch which are not found elsewhere in Bali.
Excellent night diving as well we recommend you to go at least once. An unusual species of nocturnal cat shark lives here that looks more like a lizard than a fish, Spanish dancer carrying commensal shrimps as passengers, bizarre decorator crabs, and sometimes a so far unidentified species of blue ring octopus which has blue bands rather than circles.
Tulamben
Shore diving at its best. With a 120 meter or 400ft liberty shipwreck at one end, a dramatic drop-off reef at the other, rich volcanic sand slopes and a bank reef in between, this bay can keep a diver happy for weeks. If you dive here for a while, you can almost believe that sooner or later, just about every creature in the sea is going to show up.
Here and there you will see small glassy spumes created by freshwater mixing with salt. This is a subsurface river flow percolating up through the black sand, fertilizing everything that depends on it, adding to the strange richness of the whole Tulamben area.
Current in the area is generally not a problem and flows gently parallel to the coast. The temperature is considerably warmer than the East Coast and ranges between a very comfortable 26-28 degrees – about 80F. The visibility is usually good and ranges from 10-30 meters, that’s 30-90ft. Tulamben’s calm conditions make for easy relaxing dives suitable for beginners, and perfect for photography.
The Liberty Wreck. One hundred and twenty meters of twisted steel, lying in 30-5 meters or 90-15ft of seawater in some of the most fertile waters in the entire Indo-Pacific. The sheer variety of fish species approaches almost three hundred including some very rare specimens and a huge ball of swirling big eye Jacks. The wreck is covered with a plethora of soft corals and invertebrates. To savour the best of the wreck and avoid the crowds we dive just after sunrise, early afternoon and at night. If the moon is full it is truly an eerie and memorable experience, and there are not too many wrecks in the world that you can safely dive at night.
Seraya
Is a rich black sand slope which offers amazing rare critter treasures, including Tozeumu shrimp, seahorses, frog fish, harlequin shrimp, Pegasus sea moth, tiny boxer crabs, coleman’s shrimp, ghost pipes, skeleton shrimp and so much more. Depth 25-5m, 75-15ft – Lens type Macro.
Nusa Penida
Mainland Balinese consider this low dry limestone Island almost haunted, but divers have long flocked to its clear current swept reefs.
Mola's, sharks, sea turtle, giant marble rays, deep water wire corals 15ft long and healthy coral are all here, but so can 4 knot currents and monster swell. Nusa Penida diving offers all the superlatives that makes a diver's mouth water, as they would say in Los Angeles Nusa Penida gives a good brochure.
Not all dives are drift dives, there are also bays to dive that offer protection, overall still not the easiest place for photography - but perhaps one of the most rewarding. A drift after all is a lot of fun and makes for fantastic video opportunities.
Crystal Bay. July/August - November. Encounter huge Oceanic sunfish - Mola Mola. The Southeast monsoon season creates a cold rich upwelling in Eastern Bali which attracts Mola Mola and other pelagics to ascend from the depths for cleaning. Nusa Penida is perhaps the most reliable place to see these gentle giants, though they are frequently sighted at other sites on the East Coast.
The North Coast of Penida. There are at least five named dive sites along this 8 kilometer stretch, the profile is similar at each. Typically drift diving - twenty meters might be the average visibility around the island, double that on a good day! ;For the most part the topography consists of deep coral covered slopes, the corals start from only 3 meters and it is teeming with fish life. Terraces at varying depths, towering bommies swarming with huge unicornfish, batfish and a veritable snowstorm of orange and pink anthias. ;Pygmy sea horses, giant frog fish and great nudibranchs can also be found when the current is not running.
Manta Point is situated on the SW side of Nusa Penida. Year round Mantas gather in the shallows for regular cleaning often in huge numbers. The visibility at best reaches only 5 meters, the relationship between water clarity and the presence of animals is a frustrating paradox for divers. Although Manta point is a relativley easy dive, protected from the current, it is not protected from the sometimes monster southern swell and so not always dive-able.
Toyapakeh & Gamat Bay. Both places offer somewhat protected diving and are probably the most beautiful sites in Nusa Penida, a good option for photography and searching out critter treasures. Both places are quite similar with flat coral covered terraces at around 15-20 meters (50-70ft). Remarkable bommies are everywhere filled with encrusting growth, gorgonians, black corals and their colours simply glow. It is filled with small caves and crevices, and the numbers and variety of fish life and invertebrates here are exceptional. |
